Updated October 2026 · By Bencke’s Tile
The three types at a glance
Grout fills the lines between tiles. It holds the tiles apart, keeps dirt out of the joints, and gives the finished surface its look. There are three main types.
| Type | What it is | Joint width | Best for | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sanded | Cement plus fine sand | About 1/8 inch and wider | Floors and wide joints | Can scratch glass, polished stone and soft tile |
| Unsanded | Cement without sand | Up to about 1/8 inch | Narrow joints, walls, glass, polished stone | Shrinks more and can crack in wide joints |
| Epoxy | Resin plus hardener | Narrow or wide | Shower floors, counters, backsplashes, heavy wet use | Short working time, costs more, hard to clean up |
Sanded grout
The sand gives the grout body. It shrinks less as it dries, so it fills wide joints without cracking. That is why it is the usual choice for floors and for tile set with joints about 1/8 inch or more.
The sand is also the catch. In a narrow joint it can leave gaps. On glass tile, polished marble or other soft, shiny surfaces, the grit can leave tiny scratches. If your tile is delicate, ask the tile maker which grout they recommend.
Unsanded grout
Without sand, this grout is smooth and sticky. It packs into thin joints easily, it stays put on a vertical wall, and it is gentle on delicate tile. It is a common pick for backsplashes and for polished or glass tile.
Its weak point is shrinkage. Fill a wide joint with it and it can crack as it dries. Keep it for narrow joints.
Epoxy grout
Epoxy grout is not cement. It is a resin that you mix with a hardener. Once cured, it resists stains, water and many cleaners far better than cement grout, and it does not need sealing. That is why it is popular for shower floors, kitchen counters and backsplashes.
The trade-offs are real. It costs more. It has a short working time, so the installer has to move fast and clean the tile before it hardens. A thin film left on tile can be very hard to remove. It takes a skilled hand, and a less experienced installer can make a mess. For many walls and floors, a good cement grout is plenty.
What the labels on the bag mean
Most cement grouts today have polymers mixed in to make them stronger and easier to work with. On the bag, look for ANSI A118.6 or A118.7, the tile industry standards for cement-based grouts. The joint width range is also printed there. Use the range on the bag for your tile.
Joint width is a design choice too
Wider joints hide small differences in tile size and are more forgiving on handmade or uneven tile. Narrow joints look crisp and modern, but they need flat, uniform tile, often rectified, and a more careful installer. The tile maker sets a minimum joint width, and your installer should not go below it. The grout you pick follows the joint you choose, not the other way around.
Sealing: what it does and does not do
Cement grout is porous, so it takes in water and dirt. Most makers suggest sealing it after it cures. A sealer slows stains and water, but it wears off, so it needs to be redone from time to time. Epoxy grout does not need sealing.
Remember what sealing is not. It does not make a shower waterproof. That job belongs to the membrane behind the tile, which our shower waterproofing guide explains.
Corners get caulk, not grout
Where a wall meets the floor, where two walls meet at an inside corner, and where tile meets a tub, a shower pan or a curb, the surfaces move a little. Grout is stiff, so it cracks there. The tile industry says to fill these joints with a flexible sealant instead, such as a caulk that matches the grout color.
That thin crack in the corner of your shower is usually movement, not a bad grout job. A good installer uses caulk in those spots from the start.
Color and cleaning
Grout color changes how the tile looks. A matching color calms the pattern and makes the tile look like one surface. A contrasting color draws the eye to every line. Test with a sample, because grout also looks lighter when it dries. Cement grout color can vary a little between batches, mostly from the amount of water. Epoxy tends to be more consistent.
Clean grout with a gentle, pH-neutral cleaner and a soft brush. Strong acid cleaners can eat at cement grout. Bleach is only safe on white grout.
Which one for your project?
Shower walls: unsanded or sanded, based on the joint width, and sealed. Shower floor: epoxy is a strong choice, or a quality cement grout that is sealed. Floors elsewhere: sanded. Kitchen backsplash: unsanded for narrow joints, epoxy if you want the easiest cleanup. Glass and polished stone: unsanded, or whatever the tile maker recommends. Whatever you choose, ask how long to wait before the shower sees water, and follow the cure time on the packaging.
